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China fashion week – Spring / Summer 2012

If you crave avant garde theatrical flights of fantasy, when it comes to this in terms of fashion weeks the country that stands out to me would have to be China.

The Chinese spring / summer 2012 shows did not hold back on make-up and flamboyant costume. The MGPIN make-up and styling show took place in Beijing; most of the images on this post are from those shows. The usual less is more mantra that usually applies to catwalk make-up certainly does not apply, hold on to your brushes make-up lovers.

MGPIN Make-up Styling 2012 of China Fashion Week Spring / Summer / photo from Getty Images

Tsai Meiyue wedding dress- spring / summer 2012

MGPIN Make-up Styling spring / summer 2012 / photo from Getty Images

NE TIGER Couture 2012

MGPIN Make-up Styling spring / summer 2012 / photo from Getty Images

MGPIN Make-up Styling spring / summer 2012 - Photo by Feng Li Getty Image

MGPIN Make-up Styling spring / summer 2012 / photo from Getty Images

MGPIN Make-up Styling spring / summer 2012 - Photo by Feng Li Getty Image

MGPIN Make-up Styling spring / summer 2012 Photo Lintao Zhang Getty image

MGPIN Make-up Styling spring / summer 2012 / photo from Getty ImagesMGPIN Make-up Styling spring / summer 2012 / photo from Getty Images

It’s a Mad Men world

I've been drawn into watching hit TV programme Mad Men. Love the 1960's style of fashion and make up.

Mad Men rolling stone cover.

 

The 60's was a very exciting era in fashion trends, the early 60's was still very much influenced by 50's ideas for women being there to please men, always being refined and polished, having their hair set in rollers, their fashion hugging all the right curves, keeping to the hour glass silhouette. Also in the 60s there was a great empowerment of women, with many women fighting to be part of wildly male dominated work environments such as the advertising industry, which is explored in Mad Men.

In that time period, it was all about glamour, style and fashion for women. It's so different from our modern day aesthetic which skews more natural. Back then, it was all about major lashes, and dramatic red lips. We do tons of research on the the makeup for that era. We comb old VOGUEs, other vintage magazines and 1960s advertisements to find looks that are authentic. - Lana Horochowski, Head makeup artist.

I'm going to focus on the two maid sirens of the series. Joan P. Harris played by actress Christina Hendricks and Betty Draper played by January Jones.

Betty and Joan.

 

Joan P. Harris Jessica rabbit figure and fiery red hair made her into an iconic character. She sizzles through the office with confidence and a power over the men, knowing exactly how to play them at their game.

Makeup -

My interpretation of her makeup was a thin liquid liner across the top lash line, a bit of shading through the socket line of the eye using a mid tone Matt eye shadow such as MAC Kid. Mascara only on the top lashes. A Matt foundation. More of a brick lipstick to complement her hair color, such as MAC Brick lip liner and Russian red, or a dusty rose lipstick to suit the clothes.

 

Hair -

For this french twist hairstyle you want a lot of volume from the roots. Start by putting your hair into large heated rollers, then lightly backcomb all over.

Gently smooth out the top of the hair without brushing out the backcombing.

Brush your hair all the way to one side. Using as many pins as needed, pin your hair straight up the back of your head.

With the rest of your loose hair. Put your thumb in the center and twist the hair around your thumb. Pin the twist. Then finish by spraying your hair into place.

 

 

 

Betty Draper, Don Draper's wife. She's a blond bomb shell in looks but not in personality. Living her life as house wife in suburbia, her underlying unhappiness, lack of trust and unfaithfulness in her relationship with Don tears her apart, but she sure looks good doing it.

Makeup -

Her make up was generally natural eyes again with the emphasis on the top lash line, and a statement red lip; for this look in the first series of Mad Men they used coral tone matt lipstick like MAC Lady danger with red lipliner. But then softened the lip shade and hair as it reflected the change in fashion through the 60's.

 

Hair-

For Betty's hair I would start by using heated hair rollers, then brush out your hair so the curls become waves.

For added volume, section off the top half of your hair then backcomb underneath.

If you have long hair, put it into a very low, loose ponytail and fold under; pin that into place so it looks like you've got short Betty hair.

 

Lucia Mace, department head hairstylist on Betty's hairstyle in Rome - It took a bit of time. I actually had to put a form inside of her hair just to get it to stand up the right way. And it was definitely all hands on deck for that one. I knew the only way it would work is if I just built it right on January, so she sat in my chair and we just constructed it before she walked on-set.

Lucia Mace was influenced from 1963 Italian Vogue.

 

Mad Men has had a influence on fashion and makeup

Mad Men:

Lana Horochowski & Debbie Zoller , Head makeup artists

Lucia Mace, department head hairstylist

Anthony Wilson, key hairstylist

Mary Guerrero, additional hairstylist

Peggy Semtob, additional hairstylist

MAC Spring summer trend Ath-elite

 

Ath-elite is the skin led trend of this season with plump, ultra hydrated healthy skin. Using glossy highlights not shimmer. To achieve this look on the skin you will have to invest time massaging in layers of moisturiser, minimal foundation and concealing only where needed.

 

Doo.Ri s/s 2012 / image from www.facebook.com/Parloir.de.oHLa

David Koma SS12 / image from www.cosmopolitan.co.uk

Gareth Pugh s/s 2012/ image from vouge.com

Alberta Ferretti s/s 2012 image from www.celebrityhot.info

Altuzarra s/s 2012 / images from www.facebook.com/Parloir.de.oHLa

Alexander Wang s/s 2012- www.celebrityhot.info

Kanye West s/s 2012 / image from www.facebook.com/Parloir.de.oHLa

Jonathan Saunders s/s 2012 / image from www.cosmopolitan.co.uk

Peter Pilotto s/s 2012 / image from thmduffy.tumblr.com

 

Some of the key MAC Products used backstage -

  • Prep + Prime Skin Compact
  • Chromographic Pencil in NC15 – NW25
  • Mixing Medium Shine
  • Mineralize Charged Gel Emulsion
  • Care Blends Essential Oils
  • Studio Sculpt SPF15 Foundation
  • Mineralize Skinfinish Natural
  • Fusion Gold Metal-X Cream Eye Shadow
  • Palladium Metal-X Cream Eye Shadow
  • Boldly Bare Lip Pencil
  • Fling Eye Brows
  • Mink Eye Brows
  • Beguile Brow Set
  • Clear Brow Set
  • Mid-tone Sepia Cream Colour Base
  • MAC PRO Bone Beige Sculpting Powder
  • Luna Cream Colour Base
  • Pearl Cream Colour Base
  • MAC PRO Gloss Texture Story
  • Boot Black Liquid Liner
  • Blacktrack Fluidline
  • Smolder Eye Kohl
  • Fix+ Spray
  • Lip Conditioner SPF 15
  • Clear Lipglass
  • Dim Lip Erase
  • Hush, Hush Tendertone Lip Balm SPF 12T

Marios Schwab

 

Marios Schwab s/s 2012 / image from www.facebook.com/Parloir.de.oHLa

Marios Schwab s/s 2012

 

Marios Schwab was one of my favourite looks that fell into the Ath-elite trend here's how to recreate it:

Face

  • Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15 – blended over skin to hydrate and provide a light natural finish to skin.
  • Shell Cream Colour Base – blended over the high planes to highlight.
  • Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder – dusted over the center of the face for a light.

 

Eyes

  • Clear Brow Set — applied through the brow for a light groom.
  • Smolder Eye Kohl — blended through both upper and lower lashes with 212 Flat Definer Brush.
  • Boot Black Liquid Liner — drawn through the upper and lower lashline to define and elongate eyes.
  • MAC Pro NW25/NC30 Chromagraphic Pencil — applied through the waterline of lower lashes to open eyes.

 

Lips

  • Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15 — blended over lips for a customized nude pout.

 

 

Immortal Muses the Ancient Egyptians

Elizabeth Taylor Cleopatra

 

The Egyptians wore make-up before 4,000 B. C.

Eye makeup was the main form, and it was used daily. There were other types of makeup for the lips, cheeks and skin, but those were usually used only on occasion and not by everyone.

 

Cleopatra

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Louise Gray spring summer 2012

Louise Gray spring summer 2012 / Image from sagasig.com

 

One of my Favourite shows I worked on from London fashion week spring summer was Louise Gray. The key make-up artist was James O'Riley for MAC cosmetics. This show was a lot of fun as the clothes were eye catching and James O' Riley is an extremely creative and talented make-up artist. It was also the most challenging show of the season as there were 4 hair stylists to every model. Time restrictions meant we had to do the make-up at the same time as they all did the hair, it's not easy doing liner when the model's being pulled from every direction but a great challenge.

Louise Gray spring summer 2012 / Image from Tim Whitby Getty Image

Louise Gray spring summer 2012 / Image from sagasig.com

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International Make-up Artist Trade Show 2012 – ProCharts

 

I worked at IMATS for ProCharts. We were selling face charts that are designed for Professional make-up artists. Victoria Hooker created them out of textured, recycled paper; they are designed to grip the make-up. I use the charts for teaching, planning shoots or bridal. They're also great for TV continuity.

 

Victoria on the procharts stand

Me working on a A3 prochart

The Prochart I did at the show

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Catwalk hair and makeup inspiration for brides

 

Some people think that all catwalk trends are avant-garde theatrical designs, that would be a no go area for brides.  To counter this I've put together some of my highlights of spring/summer 2012 and autumn/winter 2011, that I think would work beautifully for brides.

Louis Vuitton Paris S/S 2012 Fashion Week, makeup by Pat-McGrath. image from makeup4all.com

Louis Vuitton Paris S/S 2012 Fashion Week, makeup by Pat-McGrath. image from makeup4all.com

Louis Vuitton Paris S/S 2012 Fashion Week, makeup by Pat-McGrath

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Make-up lessons with Naomi – part 3

Photographer- © 2011 of Julian M Kilsby Copyright / Model- Integra Fairbrook / Designer- Ooh la Latex / MUA- Naomi Mckeever

 

Contouring and highlighting

You can use contouring and highlighting to sculpt your face.

Starting with contouring; matt products work best as they visually push those areas back to create a shadow affect. MAC Harmony blusher is great for this.

Where you place your contouring depends on your face shape, though most people wouldn't say no to super model cheek bones. For that, start with a 168 angle brush at the top of your ears and blend to the corners of the mouth.

Other areas for contouring and slimming down are the sides of the nose, the temples and around the forehead and under chin.

For highlighting you can use a concealer MAC select moisturecover in a lighter shade than your face, this also gives a natural satin finish when done with a 217 blending brush.

For a more high shine metallic finish use MAC mineralize-soft and gentle or vanilla- pigment  with a 227 large fluff brush.

Use it where the light hits your face on the high points and anywhere you want to accentuate, such as top of cheek bones, down the centre of the nose to slim and cupids bow to make lips look pouty.

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Immortal Muses – bridal edition

 

In aid of National wedding month I thought I would compile a collection of brides throughout history who inspire me. Whether it be fictional or real they are all style icons with their glamourous dresses and spectacular headwear.

 

Grace Kelly weds Prince Rainier of Monaco

 

Actress Gene Tierney wore a dress by costume designer Oleg Cassini in The Razor’s Edge

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Inspiration – Sylvia Ji

My good friend Lisa introduced me to the work of Sylvia Ji. Studying Fine Art I was always drawn to figurative forms of painting.

Sylvia Ji is a young painter who inspires me with her bold use of colour, movement of paint and subject matter.

Sylvia always paints women, some of them being symbolic reflections of herself or portraits of people she knows. The eyes of the subjects always inflect both mystery and soul.

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