(June 3, 1906 – April 12, 1975)
Dancer, singer, and actress.
Josephine Baker was a truly inspirational woman. She broke down barriers and fought through prejudice.
Baker dropped out of school at the age of 12 and lived as a street child in the slums of St. Louis, but that didn’t stop her travelling to France to progress her career.
She was the first female African American to star in a major motion picture and she became a world-famous entertainer, even posing for the artist Picasso.
Ernest Hemingway called her "… the most sensational woman anyone ever saw."
Baker is still influential in the fashion world today.
Here are some examples from Tush Magazine - Photographer Ellen von Unwerth, hairstyling from Christoph Hasenbein and make-up from Loni Baur.
My face chart inspired by Josephine Baker
- Blacktrack fluidline blended over lid
- Press Carbon eye shadow on top
- Blend out edges with Wedge eye shadow
- Smolder kohl in waterline
- Zoomlash masscara
- Bleach out brows with Studio finish concealer with a mascara wand
- Espresso eye shadow
- Blacktrack fluidline to make the brows defined
- Studiotech foundation
- Studio finish concealer
- Careblend powder
- Nightmoth lip pencil
- Viva Glam 1 lipstick
I represented MAC at the V&A Yohji Yamamoto show. Amazing MAC senior make-up artist Debbie F and Cher W were on the team, Cher was the key make-up artist. The show featured looks from Yohji's Spring/Summer 2011 collection, including the menswear which was inspired by the V&A's vast textile archives. The show used real-life couples as models. All of the team were so lovely.
The look was paled out skin, natural eye's and red lips for the ladies. Male grooming for the men.
- Curl lashes, mascara on top lashes if needed
- Soft definition for brows using cool eye shadow , clear brow gel
- Face and Body, their natural skin tone mixed with white Face and Body
- Studio finish concealer
- Invisible powder
- Harmony blusher for a contour
- Cherry lip liner
- Ruby woo lipstick
Please Note: All of the products used were from MAC
Summers' here and this year the bronzed goddess look is back in the limelight, influenced by the makeup trend terracopper, and the guilty pleasure that is The Only Way Is Essex.
In this post I will cover some examples of bronze icons and my tips for tanning techniques.
I think its better to fake it then bake it so here are my top tips for tanning.
- You would have heard this before but exfoliating is key, I like modern friction from origins, the grainy texture really removes dead skin cells without too much work. Do this 24 hours before you tan.
- I always use surgical rubber gloves to apply the tan, this will stop the palms of your hands going orange.
- When tanning your hands put product onto a cotton pad then glide over them, making sure to work between the fingers.
- Gradual tanners are great for fair skin.
- If your tanning product is too dark, try mixing in some of your body moisturiser.
- St Tropez mousse is really easy to blend and doesn't have a strong odor.
- For the ultimate tan, lotions go darker and last longer on your skin. I use Fake Bake - Xtreme.
- Run an ice cube over your face before tanning as this will close your pores.
- Fake tan before bed as the product will develop on your skin overnight, though you will want to have dark bedding as the tan will transfer, much to my fiancé's annoyance.
- Exfoliate 3 days after tanning to prevent your tan coming off patchy.
Terra – Copper
Think ‘Makeup through the eyes of a 1970’s makeup artist’...
Caramels and Honeys...
Perfectly placed sculpting using monochromatic shades….
Believable bronzed tones.... Natural and not ‘Tan-tastic’...
Lush, warm, sculpted...
Its un-done perfection!
“It’s about using one bronzer – definitely one without sparkle, like our new mineralize Bronzer – with three brushes! Take a 116 to contour the cheeks, a 224 tapered blending to shade the eye and a 219 pencil brush to line the eyes with a soft shadow near the lash line. Add a dash of lip balm and you’re good to go.” – Gordon Espinet
“It’s very chic, giving dimensions to the face with a very soft illusion of toffees and warm browns – it’s about putting definition into the face without it looking overly makeup-py” – Lisa Butler
- Medium Dark, Medium Deep and
- Dark Mineralize Skinfinish Natural
- Gold Pigment
- Give me Sun! Mineralize Skinfinish Natural (available 2011)
- Goldon Bronze Iridescent Powder/Loose
- Shadowy PRO Sculpting Powder
- Tan Pigment
- Cream Colour Base in Mid-Tone Sepia
- Cream Colour Base in Bronze
- Cream Colour Base in Bamboo
- Cream Colour Base in Luna
- Lust Lipglass
- Freckletone Lipstick
- Chai Lipglass
- Teddy Eye Kohl
Natalie Jane Mitchell and I held a make-up lesson for students at Swindon college on the trends. In this post It includes bits from what we covered with them in our hand-out.
For this demo I took my influence from the Terra-Copper trend. First I did the demo without filling in the model's brows then added them to demonstrate how to make the look very wearable. Natalie and I went through our tips and techniques for creating these looks and how to work in a backstage environment. Then we got the students to pair up and create a look inspired by the 4 spring summer trends and went round giving them feedback; they did an amazing job showing us they'd really listened to the brief and demonstrated their fantastic make-up skills.
Here are some of the products I used:
- Gold Pigment
- Give me Sun! Mineralize Skinfinish Natural to blend through the socket
- Smolder eye liner
- clear lipglass taped on top
- Face and body foundation
- Give me Sun! Mineralize Skinfinish Natural used as a contour
- pearl C.C.B
- studio finish concealer
- clear lipglass
Ice – Dream
Super feminine with an Avant Garde feel...
Chalky washes of pastel shades- LILAC, LEMON, PISTACHIO, MARSHMALLOW and DUCK..
More ‘Barbarella’ than mother of the bride...
Pretty but with a punk edge!
The modern pastel is all about technology and technique – its to do with changing up the texture with a gloss or a super matte finish... it really taps in to the feeling that this is very much an artistic, brave and experimental season” – Nadine Luke
- Blonde Ash Studio Finish Skin Corrector
- Lite Brite Cream shadow (available 2011)
- Swell Baby Eye Shadow (available 2011)
- Woodwinked Eye Shadow
- Shell Cream Colour Base
- Derailed Cream Shadow Quad (available 2011)
- Morange Lipstick
- Paintstick in Pure White
- Paintstick in Landscape Green
- Paintstick in Process Magenta
- Paintstick in Rich Purple
- Strobe Cream
- Peaches Powder Blush
- Juxt Eye Shadow
- Vanilla Pigment
- Myth Lipstick
I did a lesson with Natalie Jane Mitchell for make-up students at Swindon college on the trends. In this post It includes bits from what we covered with them in our hand-out.
Sophia Loren is the ultimate femme fatale with her iconic feline eyes and fabulous curves, she's entranced men and women for decades.
Born in 1934, she’s graced the big screen for over 50 years, featuring in over 100 films.
Now 76 Loren still sizzles with power and beauty.
My make-up tips for creating Sophia Loren's iconic look.
Loren's eyes are the most important feature of this look. She tended to use matt warm browns to accentuate the shape of her eye and blend with her bronzer look.
Eye shadow-Apply dark warm eye shadow to outer edge (folie- shadow). Then blend over and through the crease with a mid-tone a two shades darker than skin tone (wedge shadow). The mid-tone will blend out the darker shadow creating a seamless appearance.
Liner- I use gel based liner (blacktrack- fluidline) making sure to keep the angle lifted. I tend to follow the line of the bottom lash line. Tip- use cotton bud and (fast response- eye cream) to sharpen line or erase.
Draw a line on the bottom lash line but leave a small gap on the outer corner of the eye as this will make your eye appear more feline and elongated. Then draw a brightening pencil in the waterline (Chromagraphic- Pencil)
Brows- Comb brows up for a fuller shape. But don’t over draw them or make them too dark, try eye shadow with an angle brush (omega- shadow/ 266 # brush). (Clear- brow set) to lock them in place.
Lashes- two pairs of (36# lashes) for full winged lashes that are not too long.
Changed the way women wanted their skin to look. Poles apart from 50's trend for pale matt full coverage foundation. Her skin is sun kissed and contoured with a velvet texture.
(Face and body- foundation), (studio finish-concealer) then set with (mineralize skinfinsh).
Contour using matt shade a few shades darker than skin tone- I use (Harmony- blusher) or for fair skin (kid- eye shadow). Tip- use contour brush (168#) from top of the ear to corner of mouth.
(Sublime Culture- lip liner) buffed all over the lip then (freckletone- lipstick)
Please Note: I have put my favourite products in brackets; all of them are from MAC
Your foundation choice will depend on your skin type, the coverage you'd like to achieve and the texture you prefer.
A great one for sheer to medium coverage with a slightly luminous look: (mineralize satin finish SPF15 foundation)-(190 foundation brush).
If you like a medium to full coverage but still with a natural satin finish (studio sculpt SPF 15)-(190 foundation brush).
Skin that produces more oil tends to need a matte finish, for a long-wearing medium-full coverage (studio fix fluid SPF 15)-(188 stippling brush).
Concealer is usually used for more targeted areas of coverage such as around the eyes and blemishes.
The colour and texture of the concealer depends on the area of use. For coverage round the eyes, colour theory will come into play; if you have a bluish tint in this area then a warmer pink base will counteract the blue (in mac concealers the warmer tones are represented with NW).
(Select moisturecover)-(217 blending brush) is a beautiful concealer for round the eyes and the face as it gives good coverage without looking too heavy; it has a satin-smooth ultra-moisturized finish.
For a matte finish, long wearing concealer (select cover-up)-(217 blending brush) - good to use over eye lids before eye shadow to reduce redness.
Or full coverage for problem areas such as spots- (studio finish SPF 35 concealer).
To lock foundation and concealer in place, set them with a powder especially around the eyes to stop them gathering and creasing.
For a dimensional yet natural matte finish that’s not dry or powdery looking (mineralize skinfinish natural).
Or for shine prone skin (blot powder); only 3% colour so great for touch-ups, contains Mica and Silica to absorb excess oils and reduce shine on the skin's surface.
(129 powder/ blush brush)
Please Note: I have put my favourite products in brackets; all of them are from MAC
I was the key makeup artist for both these shows. The designers gave me a brief for what make up looks they wanted.
Hannah Dulcie wanted an edgy but sexy smoky eye. As Rihanna is a big fan of their underwear they wanted me to use her as an influence.
For this look we used-
- blacktrack fluidline- blended all over the eye
- mineralize skinfinish- in a few shades darker to diffuse the blacktrack
- vanilla- pigment as a highlight
- clear lipglass- applied over the lid to give it an oil stick, gloss back finish
- Keeping the skin understated but flawless focusing on accentuating the contours of the face
- sculpt foundation- as it gives your skin a polished, satiny, sheen but still covers imperfection
- contour- mineralize skinfinish in a few shades darker
- highlight- vanilla pigment mixed with lip conditioner
keeping the focus on the eyes we erased the lips using:
- studio finish concealer- in a warm shade then pat lip condition on top to keep the lips looking plump.
Mimi Noor wanted a fresh look.
So I gave the models a youthful glow with Rosie stained lips and checks.
Naturally contoured using-
- Kid eye shadow- though the crease of the eye
- Vanilla pigment
- Face and body foundation- takes down redness without masking models natural beauty
- Cheeks-Posie cream blusher- applied to the apples of the cheeks
- Highlight- vanilla pigment mixed with lip conditioner
- Speak louder lipstick- pushed into lips with fingers to keep the edges soft and stained
I selected a group of amazing makeup artist to assist me-
Amelia- Jane Wilkey
Massive thanks to them, they were fantastic and carried out the looks perfectly!
And a huge thanks to Hannah Dulcie, Mimi Noor the photographer Emerson, PR- Sarah Lye and everyone else involved.
There's a really amazing designer /stylist who I’ve had the pleasure of working with on a few occasions. She’s a true inspiration as she juggles being a mother of 3 and setting up her own clothing label. As well as being a stylist and photographer. So I’m not sure how she found time to blog about me but a massive thank you to EOH, her lovely words really touched me.
Here’s what she wrote-
TUESDAY, 24 MAY 2011
Naomi Mckeever is Blonde bombshell with a difference..she is a super talented freelance make up artist, with a wealth of experience. Naomi has a fine art background, which transfers to her work, as she has a really good eye for colour trends and detail. In this business, the ability to be personable, is everything, and Naomi is a very patient and kind person, I always trust her advice!. In the past Oli and I, organised a Vintage inspired, charity event and photo shoots and Naomi helped us, her skills are totally adaptable, from the 1920's to ultra modern...Have a look at her site Here. Also check out her Blog, because she has started doing make up tutorials...
link to the blog post-