Tag Archives: Foundation

Make-up lessons with Naomi – part 3

Photographer- © 2011 of Julian M Kilsby Copyright / Model- Integra Fairbrook / Designer- Ooh la Latex / MUA- Naomi Mckeever

 

Contouring and highlighting

You can use contouring and highlighting to sculpt your face.

Starting with contouring; matt products work best as they visually push those areas back to create a shadow affect. MAC Harmony blusher is great for this.

Where you place your contouring depends on your face shape, though most people wouldn't say no to super model cheek bones. For that, start with a 168 angle brush at the top of your ears and blend to the corners of the mouth.

Other areas for contouring and slimming down are the sides of the nose, the temples and around the forehead and under chin.

For highlighting you can use a concealer MAC select moisturecover in a lighter shade than your face, this also gives a natural satin finish when done with a 217 blending brush.

For a more high shine metallic finish use MAC mineralize-soft and gentle or vanilla- pigment  with a 227 large fluff brush.

Use it where the light hits your face on the high points and anywhere you want to accentuate, such as top of cheek bones, down the centre of the nose to slim and cupids bow to make lips look pouty.

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Bridal shoot – with product suggestions, MUA Naomi Mckeever

Photographer Matt Gillespie / magiphotography.com / Hair Stylist Emma Whipp / hairbyem.co.uk / Model- Monika Brożek / MUA- Naomi Mckeever

Photographer Matt Gillespie / magiphotography.com / Hair Stylist Emma Whipp / hairbyem.co.uk / Model- Monika Brożek / MUA- Naomi Mckeever

Photographer Matt Gillespie / magiphotography.com / Hair Stylist Emma Whipp / hairbyem.co.uk / Model- Monika Brożek / MUA- Naomi Mckeever

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Shoot for The New Vintage Clothing Company, with step by step instructions. Makeup artist Naomi Mckeever

Photographer- Yvette Bessels / Model- Cristina B / MUA- Naomi Mckeever

 

In this post I've included images from my second shoot for the 'The new vintage clothing company'. I worked with the same Leamington spa based photographer Yvette Bessels.

We used female and male models; for step by step male grooming from this shoot refer to my previous post http://www.naomimckeever.com/archives/751

 

before make-up / Photographer- Yvette Bessels / Model- Cristina B / MUA- Naomi Mckeever

Cristina's skin has been prepped and now is ready for action.

 

Photographer- Yvette Bessels / Model- Cristina B / MUA- Naomi Mckeever

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Makeup lesson with Naomi Mckeever – Male grooming

In this post I'm going to cover what products and techniques I use when doing make-up on men, whether its for TV, Fashion or just everyday use.

The product you select will depend on what the make-up is being used for. When I do male make-up for TV I tend to just use a small amount of concealer in target areas then a MAC mineralize skinfinish powder as it gives a sheer coverage that isn't picked up on HD, then a translucent powder for touch up to absorb oil.

Julian Lennon, Noel Gallagher and Ricky Wilson- MUA Naomi Mckeever/ Jo Whiley- MUA Helen Harrall

For this Jo Whiley programme on Sky Arts Noel Gallagher, Rickey Wilson and Julian Lennon really didn't want to look like they had make up on, so in this case I had to be very controlled in my product placement. I keep checking on the screen to make sure they don't have any excess shine. When touching up the powder I use a brush that doesn't shed too much hair such as the #188 MAC brush, making sure to miss such areas as the eye lids, as these can become oily and show up on screen. I worked on this programme with another talented make-up artist called Helen Harrall, she did a beautiful job with Jo Whiley's make-up.

The other type of make up would be for photographic use; in this case you can get away with adding more products.

Before make up / MUA Naomi Mckeever / Photographer Yvette Bessels

When preparing the skin take the time to really massage your moisturiser in to stimulate the blood flow so the face looks fresh. Work some matte lip conditoner on the lips, so they are hydrated but not shiny. Pat eye cream round the eye area.

Perfecting skin / MUA Naomi Mckeever / Photographer Yvette Bessels

Apply a sheer foundation like MAC face and body to even out skin tone.

Then with a small brush go in to any areas of the face that need more coverage with concealler especially round the eyes and nose. I like MAC moisturecover because it gives good coverage but doesn't look heavy. Set with powder. Softly contour with bronzer to warm up the skin and to add some dimension.

Defining brows / MUA Naomi Mckeever / Photographer Yvette Bessels

I find the best way to define brows without them looking too heavy is to use a MAC #205 - Mascara Fan Brush and combing eye shadow through the hairs. After set with clear brow gel.

Applying mascara with a Fan Brush / MUA Naomi Mckeever / Photographer Yvette Bessels

The same MAC #205 - Mascara Fan Brush brush works brilliantly to add mascara as it keeping the lashes separated and feathery. If you want to lift the lashes without adding colour use a clear mascara.

Powder check / MUA Naomi Mckeever / Photographer Yvette Bessels

Before they go to start modelling its worth having a quick powder check to make sure the skin doesn't look oily. Then check on camera to see if anything needs to be added or taken away.

 

Here are some photos from 'The new vintage clothing company' shoot, where Yvette Bessels was the photographer and I was the make-up artist.

MUA Naomi Mckeever / Photographer Yvette Bessels / The new vintage clothing company shoot

Model Diamond / MUA Naomi Mckeever / Photographer Yvette Bessels / The new vintage clothing company shoot

MUA Naomi Mckeever / Photographer Yvette / The new vintage clothing company shootBessels

Model DiamondAsh with me in the middle at the end of the shoot. / Photographer Yvette Bessels

Thought I'd include a picture that Yvette took of the models and I at the end of the shoot.

Makeup for the New Vintage Clothing Company shoot

I worked with photographer Yvette Bessels who's based in Leamington spa for 'The new vintage clothing company'.

In this post I've included before and after shots of the three models used.

Photographer Yvette Bessels/ Model Cristina B

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Gemma Louise4

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Purkle Princess

Before makeup model Cristina B

Photographer Yvette Bessels/ Model Cristina B

Photographer Yvette Bessels/ Model Cristina B

Photographer Yvette Bessels/ Model Cristina B

Photographer Yvette Bessels/ Model Cristina B

Before makeup model Gemma Louise4

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Gemma Louise4

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Gemma Louise4

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Gemma Louise4

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Gemma Louise4

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Gemma Louise4

Before makeup Model Purkle Princess

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Purkle Princess

 

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Purkle Princess

Photographer Yvette Bessels/ Model Cristina B

Photographer Yvette Bessels / Model Gemma Louise4

Photographer Yvette Bessels/ Model's Cristina B/ Purkle Princess/ Gemma Louise4

 

Please feel free to contact me if you want to know what products I used on this shoot.

Photo’s from some of the shows I worked on at London Fashion week A/W 2011


Charles Anastase/ Key makeup artist Sally Branka

Charles Anastase/ Key makeup artist Sally Branka/ I'm on the right sketching a facechart

Charles Anastase/ Key makeup artist Sally Branka

Charles Anastase/ Key makeup artist Sally Branka

Jonathan Saunders facechart/ key makeup artist Lucia Pieroni

Jayne Pierson/ photographer Steve Osborn/ key makeup artist Maria Comparetto/ I'm in the middle at the back

Jayne Pierson/ photographer Steve Osborn/ key makeup artist Maria Comparetto/ I'm in the middle

Jayne Pierson/ Photographer Steve Osborn/ key makeup artist Maria Comparetto/ I'm in the middle

Jayne Pierson/ Photographer Steve Osborn/ key makeup artist Maria Comparetto/ I'm on the left

Jayne Pierson/ Photographer Steve Osborn/ key makeup artist Maria Comparetto

 

Holly Fulton/ key makeup artist Andrew Gallimore

Holly Fulton/ key makeup artist Andrew Gallimore/ my makeup

Holly Fulton/ key makeup artist Andrew Gallimore

Holly Fulton/ key makeup artist Andrew Gallimore/ my makeup

Holly Fulton/ key makeup artist Andrew Gallimore/ my makeup

 

Erdem/ key makeup artist Andrew Gallimore

Erdem/ key makeup artist Andrew Gallimore/ my makeup

Erdem/ key makeup artist Andrew Gallimore

Emilio De La Morena/ Key makeup artist Sally Branka

 

Immortal Muse- Josephine Baker

(June 3, 1906 – April 12, 1975)

Dancer, singer, and actress.

Josephine Baker was a truly inspirational woman. She broke down barriers and fought through prejudice.

Baker dropped out of school at the age of 12 and lived as a street child in the slums of St. Louis, but that didn’t stop her travelling to France to progress her career.

She was the first female African American to star in a major motion picture and she became a world-famous entertainer, even posing for the artist Picasso.

Ernest Hemingway called her "… the most sensational woman anyone ever saw."

Baker is still influential in the fashion world today.

Here are some examples from Tush Magazine - Photographer Ellen von Unwerth, hairstyling from Christoph Hasenbein and make-up from Loni Baur.

Tush magazine/ Photographer- Ellen von Unwerth/ hairstyling- Christoph Hasenbein/ MUA Loni Baur

Tush magazine/ Photographer- Ellen von Unwerth/ hairstyling- Christoph Hasenbein/ MUA Loni Baur

 

My face chart inspired by Josephine Baker

Eye's-
  • Blacktrack fluidline blended over lid
  • Press Carbon eye shadow on top
  • Blend out edges with Wedge eye shadow
  • Smolder kohl in waterline
  • Zoomlash masscara
Brows-
  • Bleach out brows with Studio finish concealer with a mascara wand
  • Espresso eye shadow
  • Blacktrack fluidline to make the brows defined
Face-
  • Studiotech foundation
  • Studio finish concealer
  • Careblend powder
Lips-
  • Nightmoth lip pencil
  • Viva Glam 1 lipstick
Please Note: I have put my favourite products, all of them are from MAC

Yohji Yamamoto at the V&A

I represented MAC at the V&A Yohji Yamamoto show. Amazing MAC senior make-up artist Debbie F and Cher W were on the team, Cher was the key make-up artist. The show featured looks from Yohji's Spring/Summer 2011 collection, including the menswear which was inspired by the V&A's vast textile archives. The show used real-life couples as models. All of the team were so lovely.

The look was paled out skin, natural eye's and red lips for the ladies. Male grooming for the men.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO AT THE V&A (my make-up- the lady in the black dress)

YOHJI YAMAMOTO AT THE V&A (my make-up- the Man)

YOHJI YAMAMOTO AT THE V&A (my make-up- the lady with the stripey top)

Products used-

Eye's

  • Curl lashes, mascara on top lashes if needed
  • Soft definition for brows using cool eye shadow , clear brow gel

Skin-

  • Face and Body, their natural skin tone mixed with white Face and Body
  • Studio finish concealer
  • Invisible powder
  • Harmony blusher for a contour

Lip's-

  • Cherry lip liner
  • Ruby woo lipstick

Please Note: All of the products used were from MAC

Going for golden

Summers' here and this year the bronzed goddess look is back in the limelight, influenced by the makeup trend terracopper, and the guilty pleasure that is The Only Way Is Essex.

In this post I will cover some examples of bronze icons and my tips for tanning techniques.

I think its better to fake it then bake it so here are my top tips for tanning.

  • You would have heard this before but exfoliating is key, I like modern friction from origins, the grainy texture really removes dead skin cells without too much work. Do this 24 hours before you tan.

  • I always use surgical rubber gloves to apply the tan, this will stop the palms of your hands going orange.
  • When tanning your hands put product onto a cotton pad then glide over them, making sure to work between the fingers.
  • Gradual tanners are great for fair skin.

  • If your tanning product is too dark, try mixing in some of your body moisturiser.
  • St Tropez mousse is really easy to blend and doesn't have a strong odor.
  • For the ultimate tan, lotions go darker and last longer on your skin. I use Fake Bake - Xtreme.

  • Run an ice cube over your face before tanning as this will close your pores.
  • Fake tan before bed as the product will develop on your skin overnight, though you will want to have dark bedding as the tan will transfer, much to my fiancé's annoyance.
  • Exfoliate 3 days after tanning to prevent your tan coming off patchy.

 

Mac spring/ summer 2011 Trends- Part 4

Terra – Copper

 

Think ‘Makeup through the eyes of a 1970’s makeup artist’...

 

Bronze goddess...

 

mac- ss11- terra copper

 

Caramels and Honeys...

 

Perfectly placed sculpting using monochromatic shades….

 

mac- ss11- terra copper

 

Believable bronzed tones.... Natural and not ‘Tan-tastic’...

 

Lush, warm, sculpted...

 

Its un-done perfection!

 

“It’s about using one bronzer – definitely one without sparkle, like our new mineralize Bronzer – with three brushes! Take a 116 to contour the cheeks, a 224 tapered blending to shade the eye and a 219 pencil brush to line the eyes with a soft shadow near the lash line. Add a dash of lip balm and you’re good to go.” – Gordon Espinet

 

“It’s very chic, giving dimensions to the face with a very soft illusion of toffees and warm browns – it’s about putting definition into the face without it looking overly makeup-py” – Lisa Butler

 

The Kit

  • Medium Dark, Medium Deep and
  • Dark Mineralize Skinfinish Natural
  • Gold Pigment
  • Give me Sun! Mineralize Skinfinish Natural (available 2011)
  • Goldon Bronze Iridescent Powder/Loose
  • Shadowy PRO Sculpting Powder
  • Tan Pigment
  • Cream Colour Base in Mid-Tone Sepia
  • Cream Colour Base in Bronze
  • Cream Colour Base in Bamboo
  • Cream Colour Base in Luna
  • Lust Lipglass
  • Freckletone Lipstick
  • Chai Lipglass
  • Teddy Eye Kohl

 

Natalie Jane Mitchell and I held a make-up lesson for students at Swindon college on the trends. In this post It includes bits from what we covered with them in our hand-out.

 

My makeup demo for Swindon collage.

 

For this demo I took my influence from the Terra-Copper trend. First I did the demo without filling in the model's brows then added them to demonstrate how to make the look very wearable. Natalie and I went through our tips and techniques for creating these looks and how to work in a backstage environment. Then we got the students to pair up and create a look inspired by the 4 spring summer trends and went round giving them feedback; they did an amazing job showing us they'd really listened to the brief and demonstrated their fantastic make-up skills.

Here are some of the products I used:

Eyes-

  • Gold Pigment
  • Give me Sun! Mineralize Skinfinish Natural to blend through the socket
  • Smolder eye liner
  • clear lipglass taped on top

 

Face-

  • Face and body foundation
  • Give me Sun! Mineralize Skinfinish Natural used as a contour
  • pearl C.C.B

 

Lips-

  • studio finish concealer
  • clear lipglass